We might gripe, too, about the invasive red of that Michelin sign, which can blot a room as sleek and restrained as Aulis in Soho with what looks in passing to be the flag of Hong Kong.

In the decades after Michelin was founded, few cars were on the road. In 1920, the initial concept transformed into the modern-day, red Michelin Guide, and stars for fine dining began in 1926.